Rosy Fingered Dawn

A bustling morning in Yialos.  There is a cruise ship lying off Nimborio at the moment and the guests are being brought ashore in the lighters such as the one on the right.

Taxi boats heading for the beaches.

The downstairs of this building is a carpenter's workshop but upstairs, which was a merchant's office, has been boarded up for years since the old man died.

Before the advent of modern paints the houses were repainted every year with whitewash (asvesti), tinted with different pigments at the whim of the householder.  As the years weather it away again, a kaleidoscope of different colours emerges, creating this lovely effect.  Much more picturesque than peeling emulsion!

Most of the ruins on the Kali Strata have been restored in recent years but these two remain to capture the imagination.

A scrap of a kitten in Lieni.  Symi, like many places in Greece, has a flourishing feral cat population.  In the summer there is plenty of food around but pickings are leaner in the winter and that is when Symi Animal Welfare's admirable feeding scheme comes into play.  If you have any loose change when you pop into our office, please put it into the collection box on my desk.  Volunteers feed the cats several times a week at various feeding stations around the island throughout the winter so even when there is nothing to be found in the bins there is still something to keep them going.

The early morning sun creeping over hill at Milos.  That is the vast roof of the new undercover sports'facility in the foreground.

Homer's rosy-fingered dawn touching Pedi bay.
The equinox has passed and in theory it is now autumn.  Temperatures are still mild as the wind has now swung to the south, the direction from which our rain comes, and thunder showers are forecast for the weekend.  The hunting season has started and men on bikes with dogs riding pillion are heading up the mountain in droves to shoot partridge and quail.

The Panagia Skiadeni is still out of commission and Dodecanese Seaways are issuing schedules on a weekly basis at the moment. The on line schedule is not often updated to reflect new developments which can be very confusing but the on line ticket sales system seems to be up to date so it is best to check there.  If you prebook your tickets on line and there is any change the shipping company will then notify you.  Andy is doing his best to post regular updates on his travel blog whenever new information becomes available and we also post updates on our Symi Visitor Accommodation Facebook page.

Have a good week.

Regards,
Adriana

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The Weather is A-Changing

Kokkimides is the second highest peak on Symi after the Vigla and the views from the monastery at the top are spectacular.

Ancient stone walls and a shepherd's cottage, high up in the mountains above Symi.

The churchyard at Kokkimides.  The church is tiny and accessed through the small door to the right of the photograph. It is believed to be over a thousand years old.

A tiny window, thick stone walls and a stone tiled roof.

At some point someone etched these patterns into the threshold.

A modern touch.  The Swiffer duster evidently failed to serve its designated purpose and was repurposed as they say.

The heavy stone walls of Kokkimides have withstood centuries of extreme weather.

Looking down at Panormitis bay and monastery from the motor road above.

A mellow September morning in Yialos.

A sure sign of impending Autumn - the peripatetic carpet salesmen are back!


The weather is a-changing with a brisk cool breeze blowing and the evenings have become a lot cooler. Day time temperatures are still around 30 degrees out of the wind but the change in the winter from warm to cool has brought about a general drop in temperatures.  Suddenly people riding motorbikes are wearing long sleeves again and more of the tourists are wearing trousers and T-shirts rather than skimpy beachwear when they stroll around the harbour.

I have had family visiting and we went for a rare drive up the mountain at sunset this week. When one lives here and is working through the season it is easy to forget that there is an island out there apart from the bits we see every day on the way to and from work.  It was quite fun playing tourists for a change.  One of the places we visited was Kokkimides, one of the oldest and most fortress like monasteries on the island.  The peak of Kokkimides mountain is the second highest on the island after the Vigla and the views are marvelous. The chapel is dedicated to St Michael and is very ancient, with wonderful frescoes including some very lifelike sheep and horses as well as the obligatory scenes from the scriptures.  It is well worth taking the time and trouble to go up there.

Have an enjoyable weekend.

Regards,
Adriana




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About this Blog

I sailed into Panormitis Bay, Symi, by chance one windy July day in 1993 and have been here ever since. The locals tell me that this is one of the miracles of St Michael of Panormitis. A BA graduate with majors in English, Philosophy and Classical Civilisation, the idea of living in what is to all intents and purposes an archaeological site appeals to me. Not as small as Kastellorizo, not as touristy as Rhodes, Symi is just the right size. I live on a small holding which my husband and I have reclaimed from a ruin of over-grazing and neglect and turned into a small oasis over the course of the past 16 years. I also work part-time for Symi Visitor Accommodation, helping independent travellers discover and enjoy Symi's simple pleasures for themselves.

Adriana Shum

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